Autumn quakers 5: getting hooked on this….

Now that I am making significant progress on the Autumn Quakers sampler from Rosewood Manor, I am finding that I am getting hooked on this, as it’s completely habit-forming, and I keep picking it up to do ‘just one more motif’! In just over a week, I have completed another page of the nine page chart booklet (the centre right portion of this image)autumn-14

You can still see a bit of a ‘bump’ in the diamond area that I talked about last time I showed you this project, but I’m going to have to put up with that, I think. This page of the chart, though, didn’t have anything tricky to manage, except that I mis-counted at one point, and as I couldn’t be bothered to unpick it once I realised, I then had to juggle the surrounding motifs to ‘get back on track’ (and no, I’m not going to tell you where I did that!).

autumn-15

I’m still hooked on stitching this, and I want to get it finished now, as it’s over two thirds finished, and there are other projects calling me….

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Are you interested in doll’s houses and stitching? Then why not visit my website, where you can buy doll’s house needlepoint kits to make all kinds of soft furnishings for one-twelfth scale dollhouses. There are over 280 kits to choose from, plus chart packs, fabric project packs, tutorials, and lots of eye candy to inspire you! Kits are available on 18 and 22 count canvas, 28 and 32 count evenweave, and 32 and 40 count silk gauze, so there’s something for everyone – from beginners to experts.

As a special offer for new customers on my website, use the code FIRST TIME 10 at the checkout to receive 10% off your first order!

Dollhouse needlepoint kits

Autumn Quakers 4: I’ve finished page 4……. but I’ve got another problem

I’ve been stitching some more of ‘Autumn Quakers’ by Rosewood Manor – it’s coming along nicely!

I’ve just finished page 4 of the nine page chart booklet (the lower left hand part):

autumn-10

It’s lovely to do. What I like about it is that, however short a period of time I have to stitch on it, I always feel as if I’m ‘getting somewhere’ with it, because each little motif gets completed quickly. So, instead of thinking, ‘Well, I’ve managed to do a BIT MORE of the background,’ or whatever, with this design I can nearly always complete one motif at one sitting – even if it’s just one tiny leaf. That gives me a good feeling of satisfaction  🙂

autumn-11

I have had one small problem with this latest page of the design, though, which is purely my fault. It’s the ‘diamond’ of concentric lines of colour. The problem is that I started stitching it from the outside in, as it was easier to count from existing stitching to where to begin the outside edge, so I carried on stitching smaller and smaller diamonds…but that meant that I gradually stretched the fabric, as I was leaning on it with my right hand as I stitched, and that caused the centre of the diamond to form a ‘peak’. It’s made worse by the fact that I am experimenting with not using a frame of any kind for this project, so the fabric wasn’t being held taut – if it had been in a frame, this probably wouldn’t have happened. It’s really noticeable if you look at it sideways on:

autumn-12

So, I ironed it, stitched side down, over a pad of towels on my ironing board so that I wouldn’t squish the stitches. I used a lot of steam, and didn’t press down hard, but ‘hovered’ the iron over the diamond, pulling the fabric straighter both vertically and horizontally as I did so. After ironing the back for a while, I carefully hovered the iron over the front as well. It’s not perfect, but it’s a lot better than it was! It looks like this now:

autumn-13

Now on to page six…..

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Are you interested in doll’s houses and stitching? Then why not visit my website, where you can buy doll’s house needlepoint kits to make all kinds of soft furnishings for one-twelfth scale dollhouses. There are over 280 kits to choose from, plus chart packs, fabric project packs, tutorials, and lots of eye candy to inspire you! Kits are available on 18 and 22 count canvas, 28 and 32 count evenweave, and 32 and 40 count silk gauze, so there’s something for everyone – from beginners to experts.

As a special offer for new customers on my website, use the code FIRST TIME 10 at the checkout to receive 10% off your first order!

Dollhouse needlepoint kits

 

Autumn Quakers 3: update on stitching progress, and problem with threads

I’ve been working some more on this lovely sampler from Rosewood Manor, called ‘Autumn Quakers’. It’s huge, but is quite simple to do. This is the update on my stitching progress….

Autumn 9

I love the shades of thread that the chart uses. I bought them as an accessory pack specially put together for this design. They are Valdani variegated threads, and the colours are just gorgeous. They come packaged in a cute little cardboard box.

Unfortunately, though, one of the balls has only 2 strands instead of 3, so I’m having to do some bits with 2 strands, and some with 3 where it would look sparse otherwise, by putting together previously separated strands (trying to match the variegations where possible!). I’ve had to cut out quite a bit of the thread where it was mangled by the machine making it into little balls, so I hope I don’t run out of that shade. It’s not really worth complaining to the shop that I bought it from, as it’s not their fault, and I bought it from America, so any shipping to exchange it would be extortionate. I can probably manage with what I’ve got.

Autumn 8

This is the box of threads – I am using one needle per colour, which is why the box has all those needles inserted into the threads! Aren’t they gorgeous colours?!

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Are you interested in doll’s houses and stitching? Then why not visit my website, where you can buy doll’s house needlepoint kits to make all kinds of soft furnishings for one-twelfth scale dollhouses. There are over 280 kits to choose from, plus chart packs, fabric project packs, tutorials, and lots of eye candy to inspire you! Kits are available on 18 and 22 count canvas, 28 and 32 count evenweave, and 32 and 40 count silk gauze, so there’s something for everyone – from beginners to experts.

As a special offer for new customers on my website, use the code FIRST TIME 10 at the checkout to receive 10% off your first order!

Dollhouse needlepoint kits

 

 

How to wallpaper a dollhouse and how to lay self-adhesive dollhouse flooring

The 1:12 scale Sid Cooke Edwardian shop that I am building is the first dollhouse kit that I have ever put together. So when it got to this part, I Googled ‘How to wallpaper a dollhouse’ for some help, but to be honest, there wasn’t much. ‘How to lay self-adhesive flooring’ turned up even less….. so I worked out my own version!

I did get rather carried away with what I was doing, though, so I don’t have ‘process photos’ for this blog post – but I do have some rather nice ‘finished’ ones  🙂

This is the point where I started – the interior of the doll’s house shop had been painted with white emulsion, to give a better key for the wallpaper paste (otherwise, the paste would just seep into the plywood/MDF walls really fast).

I chose to paint the ceiling with two coats of white emulsion, and cut and fit the coving as well, before wallpapering.

Sid Cooke dollhouse shop interior painted

For the downstairs of my shop, I wanted a pinkish/feminine look, as the shop will feature mainly dolls downstairs. I found a lovely 1:12 scale wallpaper from Les Chinoiseries in Spain with a frieze of Victorian dolls around the top. I bought three sheets, as the lift-off frontage will be painted, not papered, so three is enough. Each sheet is about 18 inches wide, and my miniature shop is 17.5 inches wide on the outside, so that was plenty.

I cut test wallpaper pieces out of plain paper first, to make sure everything fitted, then I measured again and cut the pieces from the real stuff! I cut the side wall pieces with a half inch overlap to wrap around onto the back wall, which I pasted in first, and then the back wall piece I cut exactly to size, and fitted that in last. My pasting technique is to paste the wall lightly, and then paste the paper as well, and then slide the paper about on the wall until it’s in place properly. I used a soft make-up sponge to smooth out the air bubbles in the paper. This brand of paper is quite robust, but sometimes you’d need to be careful at  this point, or the paper can rip while it’s damp. I used ‘normal’ wallpaper paste (for real houses!), diluted a bit more than was recommended on the packet, and applied it using a one inch wide brush.

Then I left everything to dry – testing it occasionally with the sponge to make sure any small bubbles were squished out to the edges.

This is the downstairs of the shop:

How to wallpaper a dollhouse tutorial

For the upstairs of the shop, I haven’t quite decided yet what I will display there, so I wanted to make the wallpaper design sort of ‘flexible’ – it might end up being a second shop room, but it might also be living accommodation – so I chose a beige floral wallpaper for this room. I applied it in the same way as for the downstairs room. It was easier to do, as the wall height is lower in the upstairs room, so the floppy pieces of wet wallpaper were easier to handle!

How to wallpaper a doll's house

So far, I have just painted the reverse of the lower lift-off front a light green emulsion, as it’s such a complicated panel, with all those window cut-outs, that I’m not sure how I will decorate that – but as it’s on the inside of that panel, I don’t think it’ll be seen much, anyway.

I intend to make little removable shelves for the two bay windows later, too, and maybe add some bunting.

Tutorial on how to wallpaper a dollhouse and paint the interior

The next little job was to hang the upper wall panel onto the body of the dollhouse. The Sid Cooke kit came with hinges to do this part – but they were enormous, and I don’t like realistic scale models being ruined with chunky hinges. So, my husband designed this snazzy method to hang the panel – he drilled a hole in the side walls near the top, then filed down a nail that would fit tightly in the hole, then added glue to the drilled hole and bashed in the nail. On the front panel itself, he marked where the nails touched, then drilled a hole for the nails to fit into (after I’d wallpapered the panel ). The nails are deliberately at a slight angle, pointing upwards, so that you kind of slide the panel down onto the nails, so that it’s held in place with gravity. The nails stick out about 3/8 of an inch. Neat, eh?

How to attach the removable front on a dollhouse

For the floor in each room, I bought a sheet of real wood flooring from Jaspers Miniatures – this is great stuff to use. It comes as a sheet of strips all glued onto one piece of paper, and you just cut it to size with a craft knife, peel off the backing and lay it in place. Be warned, though, that the glue is really strong, and once it’s touched something, you won’t get it off easily! Once I’d cut the pieces to size and peeled off the backing, I started by lining them up with the front edge of the room, and then kind of rolled them back towards the back wall. Any little gaps around the edges are then covered when you stick the skirting boards in place. I bought walnut coloured floor boards, and then varnished whitewood skirtings with walnut varnish, so the two items matched very well when I’d finished.

How to lay self adhesive wood flooring in a dollhouse

What do you think of it?

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Are you interested in doll’s houses and stitching? Then why not visit my website, where you can buy doll’s house needlepoint kits to make all kinds of soft furnishings for one-twelfth scale dollhouses. There are over 280 kits to choose from, plus chart packs, fabric project packs, tutorials, and lots of eye candy to inspire you! Kits are available on 18 and 22 count canvas, 28 and 32 count evenweave, and 32 and 40 count silk gauze, so there’s something for everyone – from beginners to experts.

As a special offer for new customers on my website, use the code FIRST TIME 10 at the checkout to receive 10% off your first order!

Dollhouse needlepoint kits